Mandu, Madhya Pradesh; Historical abode of love
Tales of the famous royal romance and the natural exquisiteness cast a magical spell on one’s mind as soon as one arrives here. Beauty of Mandu is enhanced by numerous lakes and ponds and no wonder, it attracts romantics from all over the world as Shivani Pandey herself discovered.

Nestled in the enchanting forests of Madhya Pradesh is the little town of Mandu. A three-hour drive from Bhopal through beautiful hills and crop fields leads you to this legend of love and valour. A narrow road taking off from the main highway through a village, then uphill and Mandu is reached like fingers touching a green spot on the map.
Typically green and yellow fields characterize the village and you see grazing cattle, women carrying fuel wood on their heads, and drawing water from the wells. The ruins of Mandu, about 35 km from Dhar district, lie in the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh. In the 10th century, Mandu was founded as a fortress retreat by Raja Bhoj. Towards the end of the 11th century, it came under the rule of the Taranga Kingdom. It was conquered by the Muslim rulers of Delhi in 1304 A.D and in 1401 A.D.
When the Mughals captured Delhi, the Afghan Dilawar Khan, the then Governor of Malwa, set up his own little kingdom and thus the Ghauri dynasty was established.
It further came under the influence of Mohammad Khalji and his son Ghiyas-ud-din for some sixty years during the Khalji dynasty. Finally, the Mughals annexed this little kingdom. This is also the epoch for which Mandu became world famous, a spot as synonymous with romance as Agra for its Taj Mahal. For it was here that the famous yet tragic love tale of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati was enacted.

As the car raced uphill on the long dirt track laced with small mud huts we received a warm welcome from the children of the village, who followed us, waving and smiling. After about a half hour climb on the steep hills we reached our destination. Its charm lies in its separation from the mainland. It seems to be a civilization of its own, away from the noise of the city or even the village. Foreign tourists, in plenty, can be seen riding around town on their bicycles. Small shops lie on both sides of the little road, reminding me of the Mall Roads on Indian hill stations.
There are two ends to this place and you can begin your architectural exploration either from the famous Rani Roopmati and Sultan Baz Bahadur’s pavilion or from the other side, which has the famous Jahaz (Ship) Mahal. Roopmati’s Pavilion has undergone two or three stages of construction in different periods. On the terrace of the original portion there are pavilions crowned at the top with hemispherical domes, fluted both outside and inside. It is said that Roopmati came here everyday from the palace to savor the breathtaking views of river Narmada, which can be seen from here on a clear, sunny day. The style of the arches and pillars show that the pavilions were probably built a century earlier than Roopmati’s time.
Baz-Bahadur’s Palace, which is situated close to Rani Roopmati’s pavilion, has broad steps with landings at intervals. The passage through the gateway has guardrooms on both sides with a vaulted ceiling. Further the main door leads to the outer court. This palace consists of a spacious open courtyard with halls and rooms on all the four sides and a cistern in its center. The place attracts many tourists and is a photographer’s heaven. The guide tells me that Roopmati was a simple village shepherdess living on the banks of the Narmada.

She had an extraordinary beauty and charm and also a pleasant voice and deep reverence towards river Narmada (whom she considered as goddess and she did not eat without paying obeisance to Narmada). Baz Bahadur, the King of Mandu, met Roopmati while on one of his hunting trips and also heard her sing. He was so smitten by her that he invited her to Mandu to live there as he was a connoisseur of good music. She obliged but told him about her vow of not eating before seeing the Narmada. To meet her demands, Baz Bahadur built two chattris or pavilions with a dome on the military watch post on the outskirts of the town from where river Narmada was visible in a distance, as a silver thread on its way to the sea. She could also see the Palace of Baz Bahadur from here. This arrangement was usually satisfactory except when there was thick fog or clouds and then either she would go hungry or make it on horseback for a darshan (view) of Narmada. Moved by her plight, it is said, Goddess Narmada came into her dreams and told her to get a pond excavated near the palace of Baz Bahadur where sacred water from Narmada could be found linked through an underground source. It happened as was said and this is the story of Rewa (another name of Narmada) Kund near Baz Bahadur palace. However, as in many other love stories, this one too took a tragic turn as Mughal Emperor Akbar’s General Adam Khan attacked Mandu and defeated Baz Bahadur. It is believed that one of the main reasons behind Adam Khan’s attack was his infatuation with Roopmati. Defeated, Baz Bahadur fled and on hearing the news of fall of Mandu, Roopmati committed suicide by consuming poison.Also to be visited near Mandu are Lohani Caves. These rock-cut caves were carved probably in the 11th century A.D. The caves have about 80 sculptures. Some Shiva temples also are believed to have existed near the caves. To the south of the caves stands a monolithic pillar about 5 meters high probably attached to a temple.
Dilawar Khan’s Mosque is the earliest Indo-Islamic building at Mandu. It consists of a central courtyard, enclosed by colonnade and a mehrab on the west. The prayer hall has ceiling in Hindu style and its architecture is considerably influenced by Hindu workmanship.
Then there is Hindola Mahal, which is “T”-shaped, with a main hall and a transverse projection. On both sides of the hall are six arched openings. This hall originally had a massive vaulted roof. The sidewalls are strengthened with massive sloping buttresses, which have given the name, “swinging” (Hindola) palace, to the building. Architecturally, the palace is assigned to the end of the 15th century A.D.
The tomb of Hoshang Shah is square in plan, with well-proportioned and artistic arched openings on three sides supporting the marble dome above. The mausoleum stands on a square marble platform. The walls are 9.6 m high from the platform. The dome is flat and heavy, adorned with small domed turrets at the four corners. The finial of the dome is crowned with a crescent, a feature that seems to have been imported to Mandu. The tomb is influenced by Hindu style of architecture.
There is romance, poetry and beauty around the place, which is quiet and calm. The place gives a feeling of being transported back to a time in history. Not only the monuments, but the hawkers, the lanes, a noisy bazaar on the backstreet of the palace all give a very historical feel to it. I break out of a trance when I see a white woman riding her bike with her boyfriend.
Mandu has 61 monuments out of which 12 are the main ones. Historically, because of the famous Baz Bahadur –Rani Roopmati story, Mandu is linked with love, war and tragedy. The tales of the famous royal romance and the natural exquisiteness cast a magical spell on one’s mind. The beauty of the city is further enhanced by about a dozen lakes and ponds, and is easily one of most visited places by foreign tourists in this part of India.
There is romance, poetry and beauty around the place, which is quiet and calm. The place gives a feeling of being transported back to a time in history.
Next on the list for my visit was the majestic Jami Masjid was started by Hoshang Shah and completed by Mahmud Khalji in A.D.1454. On plan it is 97.4 sq.m with a huge dome on the porch and approached by a flight of thirty steps. The facade of the plinth has been arranged into a verandah, 1.8m deep, with arched openings. The interior of the mosque consists of a spacious hall about 13.7 sq.m with jali (screens) on the sides.
Madrasa or Ashrafi Mahal: The buildings here belong to two different stages of construction. The earlier representing a college or Madrasa, attached to the Jami Masjid, is a great quadrangle enclosed on all sides by a number of small cells for students. At the four corners of the quadrangle were round towers, three of which are still extant. Amongst these the north-eastern tower was later raised to seven stories by Mahmud Khalji to commemorate his victory over the Rana of Mewar in Rajasthan. The basement of this tower is 9.8 m high. Here the tomb of Mahmud Khalji was erected on the western projection of the quadrangle. The interior of this tomb is 19.9 sq.m. It was repaired during the time of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Other interesting monuments include some extraordinary creations from 15th and 16th century. Malik Mughith’s Mosque was built by the father of Mahmud Khalji in A.D.1432. The plan of this building consists of a central court and other usual parts. Dai-Ki-Chhoti Bahen-Ka-Mahal is a tomb octagonal in plan with arched openings on four sides.
Darya Khan’s Tomb has the most interesting small domes at the four corners surrounding the main dome in the center. The interior is a square with arches built across the corners to support the dome above. The tomb was built for Darya Khan in A.D.1510-26. Jahaz Mahal is known as “Ship Palace”, as it perches on the narrow strip of land between the waters of the Munj and Kapur tanks.
The ground floor of the building consists of three large halls, with corridors in between the narrow rooms at the extreme ends. Its spacious terrace, approached by a lengthy flight of steps is adorned with domed pavilions.
The ship palace is two-storied was constructed for the use of harem of Ghiyath-ud-din. The royal harem apparently possessed many beautiful women not only from different parts of the country but from other foreign lands too. The first storey was used to house them whereas the ground floor was the pavilion. A night’s stay in Mandu felt really like in the lap of nature. The tent room that I stayed in had an awesome view of the valley and the dense jungles. Mandu gives you a feeling of retreat and incidentally the resort was also called retreat. It is like withdrawing and retreating from the present and the chaotic to revisit the past centuries through various architectural marvels. The place infuses you with silence to gather and enjoy the beauty of the historical structures and the tales behind them. To bring back along with memories and many pictures you have the most interesting Imli (tamarind), which is the size of a papaya. This fruit is only found in Mandu in this shape and size, besides Africa. Some connections!
True love does not die. It lives long after the ones that loved are gone. It continues to give warmth to story books and hearts alike. Mandu, is one such place that lives beyond its time in history and beyond its ruins. Life was love here and love was life.